The routes

22
Routes in archive
Albatros
Climbing routes
Albatros - Col Turont
8b
Pleasant route the breaches the obvious, almost horizontal roof, on the left-hand side of the South Face of Col Turont.
Antersasc North Gully
Ski mountaineering
Antersasc North Gully
ALP: F, SKI: 4.1, Exp: E2
A great skiable north facing couloir, you traverse its south face uphill (val d’Antersass). This is not an “extreme” descent, but you need to have good ski control as well as ski mountaineering experience.
Black Pearl
Climbing routes
Black Pearl
8a+
Difficult rock climb established ground-up in Val Lunga, Dolomites by Florian Riegler and Martin Riegler. The rock is generally good and the climbing up the 5 pitches is quite varied, past overhangs, steep cracks and three small roofs.Black Pearl is...
Crep da le Dodesc
Ski mountaineering
Crep da le Dodesc
ALP: F, SKI: 2.2, Exp: E1
An easy itinerary along the south face of Antersass, should be tackled mainly on transformed snow or even at the beginning of winter, if the snow is stable.
Dolomitspit
Climbing routes
Dolomitspit - Sas Ciampac
VII
Beautiful south facing rock climb, recommended in spring or summer. Dolomitspit was first ascended over a period of three days from 2007 to 2015. Protected by pegs and trad gear, as well as some bolts at the belays. Calculate between...
Forcella de Ciampei
Freeride
Forcella de Ciampei
Medium
An interesting ski mountaineering traverse, less frequented than Val Chedul, with an easy couloir (val Culea) which allows you to enter the upper section of Vallunga. Even in this case the return is easy using the Sellaronda lifts.
Hart aber Fair
Climbing routes
Hart aber Fair - Piz dla Dorada
IX+
Hart aber fair - hard but fair - is located between the only other two routes on the face, namely Neolit and Spaßbremse (both established by Gietl between 2014 and 2015) and was forged ground-up over two days in summer...
Kalipe
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Kalipe - Peitlerkofel
M6
Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.
L Pilaster Desmincià
Climbing routes
L Pilaster Desmincià - Sass Rigais
VII-
L Pilaster Desmincià, the forgotten pillar, climbs the NW Face of Sass Rigais. Although the rock is rather loose on the lower and upper section, the central part of the route contains rock that is 'pure joy.'
Munt da Medalges
Ski mountaineering
Munt da Medalges
ALP: E, SKI: 1.3, Exp: E1
A winter itinerary, easy and safe which is ideal as the season’s first ski mountaineering trip.
Neolit
Climbing routes
Neolit - Piz dla Dorada
IX-
Neolit breaches superlative rock up the sunny Piz dla Dorada face above the small village of Kolfuschg in the Gadertal - Alta Badia. It shares the first two pitches of Pescione ed Airona before breaking off left to follow the...
Nuvole Bianche
Climbing routes
Nuvole Bianche - Sas dla Porta
VIII
Nuvole Bianche was first ascended after 3 attempts, two in 2014 and one in 2016. The hardest part of the route are definitely the first three pitches through the yellow section, that requires good degree of fitness. We returned in...
Rien ne va plus
Climbing routes
Rien ne va plus - Sas Ciampac
7b+
Pleasant climb established over 6 days between 3 and 28 October 2013. Rien ne va plus is certainly a good choice for spring or autumn given its exposure: south at first and then, after the 10th pitch, west. The route...
Sass da Putia East Face
Ski mountaineering
Sass da Putia East Face
ALP: PD, SKI: 4.3, Exp: E3
A steep skiing itinerary which gives you the possibility to ski down from the summit of Sass da Putia down the sunny side which looks over Val Badia. The first descent was made by Heini Holzer during the seventies.
Spaßbremse
Climbing routes
Spaßbremse - Piz dla Dorada
7+/8-
Climbed over two days onsight, Spaßbremse breaches difficulties up to 7+/8- and offers “beautiful climbing up dreamlike rock.” Just like nearby Neolit, this route was climbed without bolts.
Traverso al Cielo
Climbing routes
Traverso al Cielo - Peitlerkofel
7b
New rock climb up the South Face of Peitlerkofel, put up in 2015 by the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz.


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